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KYJ - Know Your Jewelry!

Posted by gkratnam on June 16, 2017 at 7:05 AM

Jadau Jewellery forms one of the major examples of high skilled craftsmanship that was brought into India by Mughals. Historically speaking, the tradition of Jadau work has been in practice in the states of Rajasthan and Gujarat since the Mughal Era. Considered to be traditional jewelry of India, It remains an integral part of the traditional bridal wedding trousseau.

Also known as Bikaneri or Jaipuri jewellery, the enameling with vivid colours and designs is on the reverse, while the kundan setting is in the front. Most recently, in the 2015 epic film, Prem Ratan Dhan Payo, the lead character portrayed by Sonam Kapoor was extensively shown wearing Kundan jewellery, highlighting its influence among Rajasthani royalty.


Jadau work is team work, where a group of craftsmen are involved together. Each craftsman carries out a specific task related to the jewelry creation. The Chiterias make the basic design, Ghaarias are responsible for engraving and making holes, Meenakari or Enameling is done by the enameler and the goldsmith takes care of the kundan or the gold. The word kundan means highly refined gold, and a highly refined and pure form of molten gold is used.

Kundan jewellery is created by setting carefully shaped, cut and polished multicoloured gemstones into an exquisitely designed pure gold or faux metal base. The elaborate process begins with the skeletal framework called Ghaat. Thereafter, the Paadh procedure takes place, during which wax is poured onto the framework and moulded according to the design. Following this is the Khudai process, when the stones or uncut gems are fit into the framework. Meenakari then involves enameling to define the design details. Next, the Pakai process involves gold foils that hold the gems onto the framework; these are soldered. Finally, the gems are polished using the Chillai process!

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