G. K. Ratnam | Prism Jewels

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Jadau FAQ(s)

Posted by gkratnam on August 7, 2017 at 9:10 AM Comments comments (1)

What is Polki?

Polki is nothing but uncut and unpolished diamond that is used in its natural form, without any physical or chemical treatment. Hence the stones have an unfinished look that adds a lot of character to them. Given that it is diamond in its natural form, the demand for Polki is very high, making Polki jewellery expensive. Not when you buy from us though.

How is Polki different from Kundan?

Many people assume that Polki and Kundan can be used interchangeably to mean the same thing while the fact is that they are different as chalk and cheese. While Polki is made of uncut diamonds, Kundan is made of glass stones. If you compare two necklaces in the same design, one Polki and the other Kundan, you will find that the Polki necklace shines brighter and is finished better.

How is Polki Jewellery made?

Polki jewellery is made by placing uncut diamonds in gold jewellery using gold foils and lac. Jadau, the hindi word for ‘embedding’ is often used to refer to this kind of jewellery. The diamonds are placed on a foil of pure gold which lends them a brilliant shine when they reflect light. They are then fused with the gold jewellery and further adorned with pearls and other precious stones like rubies and tourmalines that make an interesting combination with the uncut diamonds. 

Are there specific Jadau jewelers?

Across India there are specific jewelers who specialize in the art of Jadau. It is also a team craft, where each person on the team specializes in a specific part of the process, such as the so-called Chiterias who come up with the basic design of the piece or the Ghaarias who are in charge of the engraving part of the design.

Which areas are most famous for Jadau jewelry?

Jaipur and Hyderabad are the most famous regions that specialize in Jadau jewelry, but as more and more brides and young woman want to look regal and traditional on special occasions, the creators have started supplying to more cities across India.

What is Jadau most famously used for?

Perfect for special occasions, such as weddings or festivals, Jadau jewelry oozes life with its vibrant colours and intricate designs. Each piece is made up of precious stones, gems and crystals embedded in gold, without any adhesive, therefore the impressive colours and forms of the stones really stand out. These statement pieces are passed through families for generations and are very much adored by those who wear them.

If you are interested in pieces that have a unique character and are fascinated by the subtle sparkle of Polki jewellery, then you must invest in a Polki set – it will not only be a great buy for your wedding but will be a great way to start your heirloom collection that you can hand over to your next generation with pride.

KYJ - Know Your Jewelry!

Posted by gkratnam on June 16, 2017 at 7:05 AM Comments comments (0)

Jadau Jewellery forms one of the major examples of high skilled craftsmanship that was brought into India by Mughals. Historically speaking, the tradition of Jadau work has been in practice in the states of Rajasthan and Gujarat since the Mughal Era. Considered to be traditional jewelry of India, It remains an integral part of the traditional bridal wedding trousseau.

Also known as Bikaneri or Jaipuri jewellery, the enameling with vivid colours and designs is on the reverse, while the kundan setting is in the front. Most recently, in the 2015 epic film, Prem Ratan Dhan Payo, the lead character portrayed by Sonam Kapoor was extensively shown wearing Kundan jewellery, highlighting its influence among Rajasthani royalty.


Jadau work is team work, where a group of craftsmen are involved together. Each craftsman carries out a specific task related to the jewelry creation. The Chiterias make the basic design, Ghaarias are responsible for engraving and making holes, Meenakari or Enameling is done by the enameler and the goldsmith takes care of the kundan or the gold. The word kundan means highly refined gold, and a highly refined and pure form of molten gold is used.

Kundan jewellery is created by setting carefully shaped, cut and polished multicoloured gemstones into an exquisitely designed pure gold or faux metal base. The elaborate process begins with the skeletal framework called Ghaat. Thereafter, the Paadh procedure takes place, during which wax is poured onto the framework and moulded according to the design. Following this is the Khudai process, when the stones or uncut gems are fit into the framework. Meenakari then involves enameling to define the design details. Next, the Pakai process involves gold foils that hold the gems onto the framework; these are soldered. Finally, the gems are polished using the Chillai process!

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